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Venice-bound AgainMarch 15, 2012

"In Venice you may occasionally see a man thrown forcibly from a bar, all arms and muddled protests, just like in the films; and rollicking are the songs the Venetian students sing, when they have some wine inside them. I once heard a pair of inebriates passing my window at four o'clock on a May morning, and looking out into the Rio San Trovaso I saw them riding by in a gondola. They were sitting on the floor of the boat, drumming on its floor-boards, banging its seats, singing and shouting incoherently at the tops of their thickened voices: but on the poop of the gondola, rowing with an easy, dry, worldly stroke, an elderly grey-haired gondolier propelled them aloofly toward the dawn." 

This kind of writing (from The World of Venice) is why I love Jan Morris (she has a Tumblr! I am exceedingly excited and fan-girly about this). I saw her speak once at Berkeley years ago, and she was lovely, intensely interesting, and smart as hell. On her recommendation, I'm going to (probably) explore my way through Croatia to Trieste for a day or two while I'm in Venice. Of course, I might not, also. 

The last time I was there, I was very blonde.

This is what I will do in Venice: 

Read. Walk. Sleep. Eat. Ride boats, lots of them. Drink coffee until it is time to drink wine. Take photographs. (Oh, and write. But do you see how that's rather low on the list? This will be a real vacation. I swear.)

I leave tomorrow. Expect either radio silence or tons of pictures if the wifi actually works. I almost hope it doesn't. It would be nice to be disconnected, I think. 

* Travel writer Jan Morris has a fascinating backstory -- he was born James Morris, and he married his wife in 1949, had five children, and then transitioned to female in 1964, when it was a very big deal to do so. Doctors in Britain refused to do the surgery unless he divorced his wife (!), so he went to Morocco for the surgery. Later, they did in fact divorce but remained together, and get this: in 2008, they were legally partnered again when it became legal to do so in a civil partnership. Awwww. She's 85 now, and she's one of my heroes. 

** I finished my Venice Madness sweater, the one I cast on for ten days ago, in a fit of must-have-black-lace-sweater-for-trip (Rav link). Forgive the poor photos, I'll try to get better ones in la Serenissima.


I didn't understand the appeal of Venice until I spent the day on the water buses. It made sense to me then.

Are you going to knit in Venice, or was that supposed to be implied?

I don't get the appeal of Venice, but I do get the appeal of Italy. Let me think of something witty to say in Itailian . . . Va'll inferno. (Go to hell, it might prove useful in a sticky situation, but this is assuming that you don't travel like an idiot -- or me)I'm oddly proud of being able to curse in Italian.

Oh, girl! Have fun! Can't wait to hear all about it!

Have a Fabulous time!!!! Can't wait to hear about it when you get back. And pictures, lots of pictures! Travel safe and eat well.

My magical Venice moment was not being able to get a room so I wandered the streets and Piazza San Marco during the night. It is quiet, magical, and there are a LOT of cats about. I highly recommend doing this.

I didn't know the Jan Morris backstory! I read her book about Wales (A Writer in Wales, or something like that) and loved it. I had no idea about her history.

Have a great time!

Have a fantastic trip, Rachael and enjoy it for me also. I always enjoy reading about your last trip to Venice and the CPH. Still have to get going on mine - lol. All the best.

Enjoy your visit to Venezia!

Canal green with envy. And wearing your last Venice sweater -interesting colour combo! Will be looking for your postcards. Blessings.

What's not to love! Have fun in Venice and eat and drink it up.

I hope that you have a lovely trip. Drink another glass of wine for me!

so does this mean you are finally going to the "The Passion" since a major part of it takes part in Venice?
I know I keep bugging you about it, but I think you will really love it.


Buon viaggio! Have a great time. Salute!

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Rachael loves it when book clubs read her work! She's happy to attend book clubs that read her books either in person or via Skype. Contact her at rachael@rachaelherron.com to make arrangements.


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